Alishan

One day after returning from my trip to Penghu, I hopped a train to Chiayi with Alishan in my sights.  My friend Ellen and I had traveled together before, over the summer to Green Island, and I was looking forward to spending more time with her before leaving Taiwan.

When we arrived at the train station in Chiayi, we knew we had to catch a bus out to Alishan.  What we didn’t know is that our train arrived just 10 minutes before the last bus of the day departed the station.  So we ran across the street to the bus depot, only to find out that the bus seats were sold out and we’d have to buy a standing room ticket for the 2.5 hour ride up the mountain.  No thanks.  Luckily there was a crazy old taxi driver lady offering to drive us up.  Ellen used her masterful negotiating skills and finally secured a decent price for the trip.  Our cab ride was truly international; the two other passengers were tourists as well, one from Japan and one from Malaysia.  

The crazy taxi driver lady was also a crazy driver, and I was envious that the other passengers were able to fall asleep and be oblivious to the frightening twists and turns at top speed along narrow mountain roads with no guardrails but plenty of passing coach buses.  I couldn’t help but imagine how my obituary would read: “American dies in fiery death after taxi catapults off Taiwanese mountain road.”  

But we survived.

By the time we arrived at the hotel, it was nearly dark.  The air was clear, clean, and cool.  It was only about 55°F,  but people were of course all bundled up in their winter gear, as if we were at a ski resort in Aspen, instead of a mountainside town in Taiwan.  I will admit, it did feel colder than I expected, so when we settled in to a tea shop for a free tasting, I was happy to have the warm beverage.  

The next morning, we woke up at 4:30am, took the train up the mountain to Zhushan Station, walked up the road a bit to the Ogasawara Mountain Viewing Area, and saw this:

Sunrise on Alishan
Peak of Yushan to left of sun

Sea of Clouds

Ogasawara Mountain Viewing Area

Good morning, Sunshine

We waited for the crowds to thin out after the sunrise.  The last train back down the mountain leaves about 30 minutes after the sun rises, so we didn’t have to wait long.  Instead of taking the train, we hiked back down the mountain roads towards Alishan Station.  Along the way, we saw many beautiful sights, including the Duigaoyue Viewing Area and the Alishan Forest.

Hiking along the Duigaoyue Trail 

Duigaoyue Viewing Area

Alishan National Park

Alishan National Forest

Just past the Zhaoping Station, we came across a set of abandoned railroad tracks leading to the Shuishan Giant Tree.  From what I remember from reading the sign, the rail line used to lead to a depot station for the workers on Alishan, but the line is no longer in use.  The trail leading out to the Giant Tree was about 2km going directly down the old tracks.  My camera battery was running out, but I managed to snap a few shots.  At the end of the tracks, there’s a train trestle over a small stream that puts you close to the Shuishan Giant Tree.  After climbing up some rocky steps, there’s a beautiful viewing area around this humongous tree!

Abandoned train tracks

Bridge near Shuishan Tree

Shuishan Giant Tree
(with normal-sized trees for reference)

Feeling quite accomplished for just 11 o’clock in the morning, we ate an early lunch, took a quick nap, and recharged our batteries.  Next, we took the train from Alishan Station up to Zhaoping Station, just a 7-minute ride.  From there, we hiked out to the Sister Ponds, passing many animal shaped (and named, of course) tree roots and boulders.

Roots

Watch your head

Younger Sister Pond

Three Brothers Trees
next to Two Sisters Pond
(three trees growing from single fallen trunk)

Pig Tree Stump

Eternal Love Roots

Hiking on, through the ever-present masses of Chinese tour groups, we arrived at the Elephant Trunk Tree and Three Generation Tree.  The Elephant Trunk Tree just looks like an elephant, but the Three Generation Tree actually has a story behind it.  Something like 1,000 years ago, the first generation tree died and fell down.  A seedling then began to grow from the decaying trunk, thus becoming the second generation tree.    After the second tree was struck by lightning, the third generation tree began to grow from the same trunk!  The sign in front of the tree told the story much better, but either way, kudos to you, nature.

Just squint.... Elephant Trunk Tree

Three Generations Tree

We wanted to free ourselves from the tangles of tourists, so we took the path less traveled on the Giant Tree Boardwalk.  The raised walkway wandered through the forest past countless old giant cypress trees, finally looping back to the touristy monuments and museum.

Bridge to the Giant Tree Boardwalk

Giant Tree Boardwalk

Giant tree / tiny Ellen

Alishan National Forest

Giant Tree Boardwalk

Secret Passage

Red Trunk

We skipped the museum, but took a photo stop at the Tree Spirit Pagoda and the 1000-Year Cypress.

Spirit Tree Pagoda

1000-Year Cypress

Finally we came to Shemu (Sacred Tree) Station, were the famous Alishan Sacred Tree lies.  Once the largest tree in Taiwan, this tree has been through the ringer.  It stood through earthquakes, typhoons, and was hit by lightning at least twice before eventually falling a little over ten years ago.  The Taiwanese government chose to help the falling process, preserving a larger portion of the tree to lay down by the tracks near its original location.  The tree was thousands of years old and apparently it took more than ten people to circle the circumference. 

Alishan Shemu Sacred Tree

From Shemu Station, we took the train back down the mountain to Alishan Station.  The train on Alishan is so unique.  The mountain is so steep, the train cannot go straight up the tracks from station to station.  There are a series of switchbacks along the tracks at each station, where the train pulls in one way, then leaves for the next station going the opposite direction.  Basically, the train zigzags its way up and down the mountain.  And the scenery is breathtaking!

Train pulling in at Shemu Station

Train leaving Shemu Station
(opposite direction)

Passenger Ellen

Train pulling in at Alishan Station

Train parking for the night at Alishan Station

That night, we watched the sunset, to balance out the earlier sunrise.  Equally beautiful:

Sunset on Alishan

You can see almost every color of the spectrum!

After a very good nights’ sleep, we woke up refreshed and ready to say goodbye to Alishan.  Ellen once again used her excellent negotiation skills and confirmed a ride for us from Alishan back to the Chiayi Train Station, with a stop at Fenqihu along the way.

Fenqihu is an old Hakka village that used to be an important stop along the railway between Chiayi and Alishan. However, due to typhoons, earthquakes, and landslides, the railway through this area is closed.  The village is still a popular stop for tourists, and we spent maybe an hour and a half wandering the streets and trails.

Old Fenqihu Station

Fenqihu

Fenqihu home

Fenqihu Trail

Fenqihu

Bamboo forest

Curious square bamboo

Another terrifying taxi ride back down the mountain later, we arrived at Chiayi just in time for our train back to Taipei.  I have to wonder how I got so lucky to visit this wonderful gem of Taiwan, and to travel (again!) with my wonderful gem of a friend Ellen!

Me and Ellen at Alishan Station

Penghu - You can do WHAT with a cactus?!?

Needing a vacation from our vacation-lives, Alex and I booked a trip to Penghu.  A 40-minute flight later, we were officially on island time, far away from the gray, drizzly Taipei grind.  

Penghu is an archipelago in the Taiwan Strait, between Taiwan and China.  It’s made up of nearly 100 islands, and the landscape is vastly different than the rest of Taiwan.  We are used to seeing mountains and tall trees on the main island of Taiwan, but Penghu is a flat set of islands, full of waving grasses and spiky cactus. 

Penghu

After checking in to hotel and getting to know the friendly and helpful staff, we ventured out to explore the only real city to speak of in Penghu -- Makung.  We quickly discovered that we were some of the only tourists in town.  The high season ends in September, and we traveled at the beginning of November.  The wind had kicked up, the temperatures had dropped, and the sightseers had packed their bags.  So, no waiting in line or throwing elbows to force our way in front of gangs of tour groups.  Perfect. 

All alone

Our wanderings led us all around town, from the old streets of Zhongyang to the Confucius Temple and Martyr Shrine.  Oh, and I had recently bought a new camera, so this post will be FULL of pics. 

Zhongyang Old Street

Makung City

Makung door

Squid drying on the street

My favorite Buddha

Confucius Temple, Penghu

Cactus Shaved Ice!  Cactus ice cream and cactus jelly.

The next morning, we woke up early and took a day trip to some of the outer islands.  The ferry out to Chimei was a puke-fest, but I managed to keep my congee down.  Although the tour didn’t make a stop at Tongpan Island, the captain slowed down enough for us to take a few pictures.  Tongpan is known for the natural basalt column cliffs surrounding the island.  

Tongpan Island, Penghu

Our first stop was Chimei Island, at the southern end of the archipelago.  Chimei means “Seven Beauties”, which refers to the legend of seven women who threw themselves to a watery death in the ocean rather than give themselves over to Japanese pirates.  The adventure began right away, in the parking lot behind the dock.  Alex and I had signed up to rent a scooter to ride around the islands, instead of going on the tour bus with the larger group.  Neither of us have an international license, but we were just planning on faking it.  I mean, millions of people bop around on those scooters everyday; it can’t be THAT difficult.  Unfortunately, our complete ignorance of scooter operation was quite obvious to the little old lady who was passing out the keys.  We were quickly chased out of the parking lot and forced to join the masses on the tour bus.  If we could have just gotten it started.....

The bus took us to the Waiting for Husband Rock.  The Taiwanese love to give names to inanimate natural objects, and apparently this one looks like a pregnant woman laying on her back.  According to legend, a fisherman went out to sea, and his faithful wife waited for him by the reef.  But when a storm brewed up and the husband didn’t return, the wife continued to wait.  After several days (weeks?) the villagers became quite concerned for the woman’s health, especially after it was discovered that she was pregnant.  But the wife kept waiting, and of course, ended up dying.  So, now the reef has taken the form of a pregnant woman, lying in wait.  Which came first, the legend or the rock?  

Baby bump

Next up was Little Taiwan Rock, which -- you guessed it -- is a rock that looks like Taiwan.  But, this one really can’t be argued; it DOES look like Taiwan.  

Xiao Taiwan

The final stop on Chimei was the most photographed spot on Penghu, Two-Heart Stone Weir.  Amazing as it would be if this was a natural weir, it’s not; it’s man-made.  No less beautiful, though.  Designed to trap fish during low tide, the Stone Weir is just one of hundreds throughout the islands.  

So beautiful

So cute

Back on the ferry, we climbed up top to ride with the wind in our hair.  Once again I was reminded how few safety precautions the rest of the world observes, compared to America.  The boat ride was wild, rocketing over waves and flinging us about, causing us to laugh and let our hair fly-- I mean, scream and hold the rails with a death grip. 

Our only safeguard -- a thin railing

Alex enjoying the ride

The ferry docked next on Wang’an Island, where we were once again denied access to scooters.  Never discouraged, we joined the tour group on Tientaishan, a mountain (hill) said to be formed from the oldest piece of basalt on Penghu.  At the top is yet another strange, legendary rock formation: the Immortal Lu Tungbin’s footprint, which was left behind when he squatted down to pee.  Really.  That’s the legend.  I’d come up with something better myself, but to each his own.  

Lu Tungbin's footprint

Later, at the Zhongshe Old Residence, we discovered how life used to be on Wang’an Island.  The abandoned seaside neighborhood was a bit eerie, but that didn’t stop me from taking approximately one million pictures.  Here are just a few.  

Zhongshe Old Residence

Inside an abandoned home

Door barricaded against strong winds

Making myself at home

Anyone home?

Finally, we stopped at Wangankou Beach, which is adjacent to the Green Turtle Conservation Center.  We didn’t see any turtles, but we did bask in the glory of the golden sand, crystal blue water, and complete absence of any other people.  Gorgeous.  

Wangankou

Waves

Peace

Back on the main Penghu Island, we grabbed some dinner and a handful of beers from 7-11 and headed down to Kuanyin Pavilion Park to watch the sunset.  Sitting at the bay watching the windsurfers and recounting the day’s adventures, we watched the sun dip down and the colors of the Rainbow Bridge light up.  Life is good. 

Sunset ride

Rainbow Pedestrian Bridge, Penghu

We ended the night with one good decision -- the “Absolutely Drunk” cocktail at Freud Pub -- and a series of bad decisions, which shall remain untold. 

Absolutely Drunk -- I called it a Penghu Island Iced Tea.
Six kinds of alcohol mixed with cactus juice.  Yeah.

Freud Pub, Penghu

The next day didn’t really begin until around noon, you know...because it was vacation...  We were once again denied scooters.  We were also admonished for requesting bicycle rentals, since apparently it’s crazy to ride bikes when it’s windy out.  Resourceful as we are, we marched up to the (only) bus station and figured out where we wanted to go and how to get there.  Then we missed the bus.  Dang you, Absolutely Drunk!

While we waited for the next bus to arrive, we had an hour and a half to kill around town.  We walked along the Makung Old Wall and stumbled upon another old deserted neighborhood.  

Makung Old Wall

Old Village from water's edge

Old Village tree

Coral wall

Old Village home

By the crack of 3pm, we were on our way to see the sights at Fengkuei Cave.  According to my Lonely Planet guide, Fengkuei Cave is famous for a fantastic water and sound show during strong winds at high tide.  We waited around for a while, hoping for a performance, but nothing ever happened.  We tried asking the little old men outside the local shop when high tide was, but they were only interested in commenting on my extreme, freakish height.  Ahhh, Taiwan. 

Fengkuei

Fishermen at Fengkuei

Penghu playground

Really?
People live here and see this everyday?
What am I doing with my life?

That night, famished from our busy day of waiting around, we ordered up some of the local delicacies at Jang Jin Restaurant.  We cleaned our plates of fresh fried prawns, pumpkin rice noodles, fresh-caught fish, ginger soup, and sea cucumber salad.  Hen haochi. 

Seafood feast

Our original plan of renting bikes to ride around the main islands was put to rest by the many rental shops that laughed and looked at us crazily when we inquired about pricing and availability, so we opted for a private taxi hire for the day.  Mr. E was our faithful driver, and for the low-low price of $1800NT ($60US), we toured Huhsi, Baisha, and Hsiyu in style.  

Mr. E pulled over at the Baisha Wind Power Plant, and by “pulled over” I mean “turned off the main highway and drove up the bike path to the shore.”  Oh, Taiwan. 

Wind power

My hair is caught in a windmill.

Next stop was the famous Tongliang Banyan Tree.  The roots of this single, 300-year-old tree have spread their way across nearly 6,500 square feet.  Lucky for us, no other tourists were around, so we had the entire area peacefully to ourselves.  We did bother the locals for some cactus sorbet at the nearby shop.  

Tongliang Banyan Tree

Twisted, tangled roots

More cactus food!

Chomp.

After crossing the Trans-Ocean Bridge, we stopped at Da-Yi Temple.  Having seen SO MANY temples in Taiwan, I admit I’m less than impressed with them now.  But this temple has a deep dark secret that sounded fascinating in the guide book and did not disappoint in person.  Past a sign proclaiming government approval, downstairs in the basement, the temple is transformed into a neon coral freak show.  Sneaking through the DayGlo painted sea coral walls, you come to a shallow pond surrounded by floodlights.  And there, in the corners hiding beneath the faux habitat, are real live sea turtles!  Really!  In the basement!  Of a temple!  In a shallow pond!  Surrounded by neon coral!  Here’s proof:  

Disclaimer

Las Vegas Coral?

Sad.

Way out on the western tip of the island, we climbed up to Yuwengdao Lighthouse.  British officers used to stand guard here for ten years at a time.  Boooooring.  But beautiful views!  

View from Yuwengdao Lighthouse

Yuwengdao Lighthouse, Penghu

Photo by Mr. E

We soon found ourselves underground again, this time in the bunkers of the West Fortress.  Once home to 5,000 soldiers, the grounds are now open to tourists.  And surprise!  We were alone again!  

Underground

Bang

West Fortress, Penghu

Not wanting us to miss a thing, Mr. E stopped at the Daguoye Columnar Basalt.  These seaside cliffs were formed by the cooling lava that created the Penghu Archipelago.  

Geology rocks :)

Daguoye Columnar Basalt, Penghu

Our final destination was yet another old village built of coral rock.  The Erkan Old Residences are still partially inhabited, which made them quite different from the others we had wandered through.  At one home, a young man welcomed us in, showed us historical artifacts, and sold us refreshing cactus drinks.  

Erkan Old Residence

Village map

Erkan streets

Erkan home

Windy

Red and white cactus juice with cactus aloe

Back in Makung that evening, we went on a cactus-flavored food and beverage hunt.  We sampled cactus mochi, cactus cakes, cactus wine, and finally settled in at a bar for a few cactus cocktails. 

"Sleeping Beauty" - cactus juice and tequila

"Dancing Mary" - cactus juice and vodka
And Dancing Alex :)

The last day of our island getaway had alas arrived.  Refusing to waste one moment, we hopped a bus to the deserted beach at Aimen.  We were the only sunbathers, and the only people altogether, aside from the occasional police patrolman or sanitation worker.  The beach was gorgeous, and I could see it being a very busy and popular spot in warmer weather.  

Aimen Beach

Another secluded private beach?  Yes, please.

Drifing

Testing the water

Penghu was amazing, and I highly recommend you go!  The landscape is so vastly different than the rest of Taiwan, even the beach town of Kenting.  Five days was the perfect amount of time, and contrary to the many warnings I received before going, the wind was not a problem and the temperatures were not too low.  Of course, when the tradeoff is a remote island nearly devoid of tourists but full of charm, there’s a lot I’m willing to put up with. 

One last meal